This post is part of a 13 part series, if you want to start from the beginning, click here.
Wednesday in Munich
Zoigl Trip - Part 5 of 13
After a rainy Tuesday, Wednesday was sunny and temperate.
I didn’t get to see the BMW Museum on previous visits to Munich, so that was on the agenda. We took the subway there, where Billy, always wanting to practice his German, struck up a conversation with a group of young people doing their public service. The parts I understood were interesting, especially what they knew about Philadelphia.
The BMW Museum, which opened in 1972, is a cool bit of architecture. I found the contents very interesting and well laid out. BMW stands for Bayerische Motoren Werke (Bavaria Motor Works), and if you want to see motors and their evolution (and I did), this is the place to go.
Besides the Museum and BMW office tower, there is another huge BMW building, The Welt, that we couldn’t figure out. Our confusion was due to The Welt being mostly closed to prepare for an awards show. Like most buildings in Munich, there was no shortage of food operations in the Welt. We got some refreshment at a coffee cart thing right by a second floor terrace at the back of the building with a view of Olympiapark. It was a lovely late autumn afternoon to sit outside with a Paulaner Helles and no schedule.
We were due to meet Rich and Doreen for dinner that evening. We had time to spare and wandered through the Viktualienmarkt on the way to the hotel. The beer garden was open; both locals and tourists from around the world took advantage of the lovely afternoon and the place was hopping. We grabbed some beer and sat at a table with a nice family from Korea. I was enjoying the pleasant moment and forgot to take any pix.
At 5pm, Rich came downtown to meet us. He suggested a very fast beer at Stehausschank. For me, Stehausschank, which I have no idea how to pronounce, was a real highlight. It is a small room, no seats, with a service window where they serve wood cask Augustiner. At that time, the room was packed with mostly young guys who seemed to be enjoying an inexpensive after work beer. Don’t try to escape the wall to wall people by taking your beer outside, you’ll get scolded. This is not a place to relax; it’s a place to grab a tasty beer (or two) and move on with your evening festivities. In that way, it reminded me of the genievre place off of Dam Square in Amsterdam (expect more on that in a few months).
We three hopped a tram to Wirtshaus Eder for dinner. Located in a non-touristy neighborhood, Wirtshaus Eder is a bustling gastropub. In addition to tasty traditional Bavarian food, they feature difficult to find Bavarian craft beer. It’s a popular place with locals, so I recommend getting a reservation.
There I took Rich’s recommendation and had a beer from Schönram. And I took Doreen's recommendation on what food to order. After a really wonderful dinner with Rich and Doreen, Billy and I took the tram back to Old Town and ended up at Schneider for a final beer or two.
Schneider Bräuhaus München is another traditional Munich beer hall located near the Marienplatz. If you get to Schneider before 12 noon, you can get the traditional Bavarian weisswurst breakfast, which features two weisswurst (Google the proper way to eat it beforehand), a pretzel, and a weissbier - a true Breakfast of Champions! If you go to Munich, you should do this at least once. But don't ask for it after 12:01PM!
At Schneider, I started off with an Aventinus, their high octane weizenbock, because you only live once. Being later in the night, we were seated at a long series of tables with no seats on the other side. Seated next to me was an off-duty Munich police officer who wanted to practice his English. It was a jolly time. I even had time to get in a fast sketch, which a waitress wanted a picture of. I'd gotten serious about drawing every day 7 months earlier, and this was a first for me.
And that was Wednesday fully seized.
Next post in this series (coming soon): Thursday in Munich
Stehausschank, Thiereckstraße 2, 80331 München, Germany
Wirtshaus Eder, Gollierstraße 83, 80339 München, Germany
Schneider Bräuhaus München, Tal 7, 80331 München, Germany
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